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In this News Bulletin:

1) UIAA News

  1.1) International Mountain Day 11 December

  1.2) 2014 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Tour - video released

2) Journal 2013

3) Supertramp Award 2014 

4) Bouldering in Table Mountain National Parks

5) Rock Climbing News

6) Winter Climbing Meet in Scotland

7) Section News

8) Snippets

9) Newsworthy Items for Inclusion



1.1) Please note that December 11, 2013 is International Mountain Day.

It is an occasion to celebrate the mountains we all love and get involved in projects and initiatives which will ensure that they remain protected. We also look forward to hearing from you about any projects or initiatives your federation has planned so that we can share them with other members and the world.

International Mountain Day dates back to 1992 with the adoption of Chapter 13 of Agenda 21 "Managing Fragile Ecosystems: Sustainable Mountain Development" at the United Nations Conference on Environment and Development. On the Food and Agriculture Organization website this year's event is highlighted:

"This year's theme is "Mountains - Key to a Sustainable Future". The focus will be on celebrating how mountains are crucial in moving the world towards sustainable economic growth in the context of poverty eradication, and on drawing attention to their generally sustainable and low-emission production models. We believe this theme will help in raising awareness on how new opportunities can bring benefits to highland and lowland communities without contributing to the degradation of mountain socio-ecosystems. In particular, within the follow-up to Rio +20 and the ongoing process on sustainable development goals, we would like to continue underlining how the goods and services deriving from mountain regions are essential for sustainable development."


Preparations are underway for another exciting season of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Tour which begins in Cheongsong, Korea on 11 January 2014. The competition takes place in five countries. Registration for athletes begins on the UIAA website on 1 December 2013: View the video:


2) JOURNAL 2013

This is a call for submissions to the 2013 Journal No. 116 to be published by the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) (

About the MCSA Journal: The MCSA Journal has been published since 1894. Apart from reaching 3,000+ MCSA members, the MCSA provides about 60 complimentary copies to libraries of eight South African universities; the UIAA;  the National Library, the Royal Geographic Society in London, the American Geographic Society, the International Mountaineering Museum in Nepal, international alpine associations such as the British Mountaineering Council; the Alpine Club, the Scottish and New Zealand Mountain Clubs and other Mountain Clubs in Africa (Kenya, Malawi, Uganda and Zimbabwe).

Contributions for the 2013 Journal should reach the Editing Team through the Journal Co-Ordinator ( ) by31 January 2014.   Late submissions will not be accepted after 31 March 2014, except by prior arrangement (best via email so that there is a written record).  Submissions missing information as requested a below will also be returned to authors.



The 2014 MCSA Supertramp Award of up to R15, 000 is available to South African citizens who are no older than 25 years as at 31 December 2013 and who in 2014 will be participating in or leading an expedition of South African mountaineers who are all no older than 25.  Closing date: 5 January 2014.  Information and application forms: MCSA Sections or MCSA web site.



There have been a few reports of people being chased out of Echo Valley by SANParks Rangers. This is concerning given that no access issues have ever been raised by SANParks regarding bouldering in Echo Valley with the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA). Even more concerning are the threats of arrest that some climbers have reported.

        SANParks have no legal grounds in this regard. There is no legislation that prohibits bouldering in Table Mountain National Park and certainly none that sanctions arrest. It is important that the climbing community take a stand on this matter and resist intimidation by rangers. Should you be approached by any rangers in Echo Valley or any other areas for that matter, we advise you to refuse to leave as giving into their demands sets a bad precedent.

     The bouldering EMP which SANParks requested was submitted to SANParks in July 2012 and despite several attempts by MCSA to finalise this there has been no word from SANParks.  The self-imposed moratorium on Redhill has been lifted with the exception of Easter Island.

           We advise that you also carry the official letter signed by MCSA.  In the unlikely event that you are arrested, or faced with a fine (which you should not pay), report the incident immediately to MCSA. or 083 355 9933)



Bouldering EMP

Due to the continued silence of SANP, the Rock Climbing Committee is going to finalise the draft of the Bouldering EMP and approve it before posting it on the forums for the climbing community to view.

 ARF and Rebolting

No more rebolting will take place this year.

Look out for meets taking place in 2014 at the following crags:

•         Kalk Bay

•         Remaining areas in Kleinmond

•         Fawlty Towers

•         A few routes on Hellfire< /p>

•         Cloud 9 and Pump House at Lower Silvermine

Boschkloof Crag

The MCSA is working on re-opening Boschkloof crag.  We kindly ask that all climbers continue to respect the no-go zone at this crag.

The Port Jackson Wacking Committee and The Mine Path Maintenance

The MCSA Rock Climbing Committee has upgraded and cleared the path.

Black Shadow Access

The SA Heritage Site Council has done an investigation of the Black Shadow Boulder and has found historical rock paintings and rock art.  Black Shadow may be deemed an historical site and remain closed to climbing permanently.    Please continue to observe the closure of Tea Garden.

Rocklands State

The Annual Rocklands Clean-up has been done and the private landowners are in the process of approving an online permit system and multi-lingual signage on their lands.



One of our members, Robert Powell, who lives presently in the UK, has offered to lead a winter climbing meet in Scotland, sometime between 22 February 2014 and mid-March. The base will be Fort William, Scotland. Some ice climbing experience is required. This trip will be self-financed. Anyone interested should contact Uschi Magg as soon as possible, but not later than 31st December 2013:at  Tel: 011 907 7438  Mobile: 072 254 8380  




Various afternoon and early evening meets have been arranged for December 11 and   

Boerie rolls, DJ, Keg of Beer, Cash Bar and beeeeg party! In the evening at the Clubhouse.


The main aim of the fund is to make a financial contribution towards conservation projects that will benefit the Magaliesberg.  An amount of R18 000 is available each year for any person or group that would be interested in doing a conservation project in the Magaliesberg.  Closing date: 15 January 2014     Send your application to  They look forward to receiving your application!


Section newsletters new on their Web Pages: KwaZulu-Natal Section: Last quarter of 2013 has been added to the web-site:

7.4) ANNUAL DINNER - Stellenbosch

A very successful Annual Dinner was hosted by Stellenbosch Section on 16 November as part of their 60th birthday celebrations. The Guest speaker was Stephen Venables.



8.1) All South African team summits Ama Dablam, Himalaya

John Black, Allan Dickinson and Warren Eva have become the first all-South African climbing team to etch their names into the Ama Dablam history books with an impressive and historic climb of “The Mothers Necklace” in the Khumbu region of Nepal on Sunday November 17 2013.

8.2) Alex Honnold to climb Asia’s tallest skyscraper

Alex Honnold is due to solo Asia’s second highest building The Taipei 101 with Peter Mortimer filming the ascent.  The ascent will be broadcast live but will happen on a ten-second delay, allowing producers to cut the show in the event of something going wrong.  Naturally one asks if Alex is selling out with a publicity stunt?

8.3)  Lesotho

A  Three day 1.200km mountain running journey through the magnificent mountain kingdom of Lesotho.  20 - 22 March 2014.  Entries are now open.  Wildrunner (021) 821 988

8.4) George Mallory

An intriguing story came to light over the weekend in The Guardian.  It indicates that George Mallory’s body may have been found on Everest as far back as 1936, but the information was not shared with the press.  This revelation is part of a new biography on mountaineer Frank Smyth.  The book, written by Smyth’s son Tony, reveals letters in which he talks about coming across a body on the high slopes of the mountain...  The body could have only belonged to Mallory or his climbing partner Andre “Sandy” Irvine.

8.5) Protecting Snow and Ice Critical for Development, Climate

Each year, the snow line on the Himalayan and Andean mountain slopes continues to creep up, exposing brown dirt where 50 years ago there was always snow.  Big lakes formed by melting glaciers cause catastrophic floods in some areas, while lack of snow melt lead to crippling drought in others. At the same time, 4 million people perish each year from the smoke they inhale from open-fire cooking.

          A new scientific report shows that by moving rapidly to reduce such short-lived climate pollutants (SLCP), we could slow the warming in critical snow and ice-covered regions with multiple benefits as a result.

          The On Thin Ice report comes on the heels of another recent World Bank report that looked at ways in which the Bank can more effectively address short-lived climate pollutants through its projects.  Going forward, despite challenges of implementation around cost, behaviour and technology, the goal is to transform as much of the Bank’s portfolio as possible into activities that  directly help reduce the release of SLCP into the atmosphere.

8.6) Nanga Parbat

Reinhold Messner, recently visited Pakistan, a few months after terrorists had shot eleven climbers at the Diamir basecamp on Nanga Parbat.  He describes the atmosphere down there.  The mountain has not changed, but the connections are much worse than he thought. The terrorists were contract killers close to the Taliban, paid to carry out a bloodbath. They also wanted to hit the western world.

8.7) Competition Climbing

South Africa was represented at the World Youth Cup of the International Federation of Sport Climbing when the SANCF Youth Team (11 members including Paul Bruyere as head coach) was awarded Protea colours.


9) Any newsworthy items for inclusion in MCSA National News can be sent to the Editor, Bridget Carrick (



Climbing is like a mirror: it's nothing in itself, only a reflection of the effort and energy you put into it. If you struggle against a blank rock wall, you will find struggle to deal with. If you're relaxed and tranquil, the climbing will feel effortless. A mirror doesn't lie.

 Andy de Klerk, Sharper Edges, Sunbird, 2007

Best Regards

Bridget Carrick

eNews  Editor 


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